Cartier & Rolex Icons Shine At Auction...
20th August 2025
Two remarkable wristwatches captured the attention of collectors and connoisseurs alike in our previous Fine Art Sale, each representing a unique chapter in the history of fine watchmaking. The sale highlighted the enduring appeal of vintage timepieces, not just as accessories, but as design icons and tangible pieces of history.
Among the top-performing lots was a gentleman’s 18ct yellow gold Tank Normale wristwatch by Cartier, which sold for an impressive £30,000 (including buyer’s premium), far surpassing its £8,000 estimate. What set this watch apart was more than just the legendary Cartier name. This piece was made by Cartier London, a lesser-known yet highly coveted chapter in the brand’s history. During the mid-20th century, Cartier's London workshop operated independently, producing watches in extremely limited numbers and often by hand. These pieces frequently featured subtle (and sometimes bold) design departures from their Paris and New York counterparts.
The Tank Normale, first introduced in 1917, is the original and purest expression of Cartier's now-iconic Tank design. This London-made example, hallmarked for 1949 and fitted with a European Watch and Clock Company movement, remains in beautifully preserved condition. With its raised enamel Roman numerals and original folding clasp, it embodies everything collectors cherish.
The growing global appreciation for vintage Cartier, particularly London-made examples, continues to fuel demand. We were delighted to handle the sale of such a historically important timepiece.
Another standout from the sale was a gentleman’s stainless steel Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master, model 1675, which achieved £10,625 (including premium), just over its £9,500 estimate.
Introduced in the 1950s and famously co-designed with Pan Am Airways, the GMT-Master was created for pilots navigating multiple time zones. But beyond its aviation roots, the watch has become a cultural icon, and the model 1675 is one of the most collectible references in the series. What makes this particular example especially compelling is its distinctive red and blue bezel, affectionately known among collectors as the ‘Pepsi’ bezel due to its resemblance to the soft drinks logo. First introduced in the mid-1950s, the bi-colour bezel served a practical purpose: helping wearers distinguish between day and night hours when reading dual time zones.
This 1972 model, offered with its original green leather Rolex box and instruction booklet, remains a sought-after classic among vintage Rolex enthusiasts. Its blend of functionality, style, and legacy has ensured the GMT-Master’s place as one of the brand’s most beloved designs.
As collectors continue to seek out the rare, the iconic, and the beautifully preserved, these two watches serve as perfect examples of the strength of the vintage watch market and the results we are proud to achieve for our clients.
We are welcoming entries for our upcoming Fine Art Sale. If you have a watch, timepiece, or collection you are considering selling, we would be pleased to offer expert advice and complimentary valuations. For enquiries or to discuss a potential consignment, please get in touch with one of our team.
